A Tell-Tale Drip

Drip. Drip. Drip. We’ve all heard it, and generally, try to ignore it. But have you ever thought of how much water is literally going to waste and how much that could be costing you? Generally it is a fairly easy and affordable repair, whether it is a flapper or a washer. Being aware and doing something about it as soon as you can will always be better than just putting it off for another day, because the problem with drips is they generally worsen over time. Don’t compound the problem by waiting.

That Drip. Drip. Drip. At one per second adds up to about 3,000 gallons a year. The average leaking toilet is 200 gallons a day or 6,000 gallons a month. The combination of the two would fill nearly 4 average residential size pools at 19,000 gallons each in one year’s time. On average a family household of 4 could go through 9,000 to 12,000 gallons or 12 to 16 units a month with just the normal usage.

What is that extra water loss costing you, you might ask? Well that depends on where you live. Also keep in mind this is not based on if you are on a well but a city utility. But if you figure on each unit (the measurement that most utilities will bill you on, 1 cubic ft. = 7.48 gallons, and 1 unit = 100 cubic ft. or 748 gal.), you will more than likely be between $3-4 per unit. Therefore, if you have a toilet leak that is roughly 6,000 gallons/8 units a month, that could cost you from $24-32 a month. And to make things worse, usually that bill comes quarterly in which you would have compounded 3 months of accumulated water loss, and that bill quickly multiplies to $72-96. Not to mention the fact you will still need to take time to repair the leak and/ or pay someone else too. Did I mention, more than likely all you needed was a $3-15 flapper? Drip. Drip. CHA-CHING…

Pro Tip: Drips can become leaks, leaks can become streams, and streams can become floods.

With that being said, here are some ways to stay on top of leaks and help identify them as they are happening or before it’s a major problem.

• Invest in a home water monitoring device, such as a Flo smart meter by Moen. Not only will the meter inform you of your usage via phone app, but it will also turn the water main off in the event of a high volume leak to help reduce potential damage to your home.  https://meetflo.com/

In addition, to check for leaks in your home, you first need to determine whether you’re wasting water, and then identify the source of the leak. Here are some tips for finding leaks: https://www.epa.gov/watersense/fix-leak-week

• Take a look at your water usage during a colder month, such as January or February. If a family of four exceeds 12,000 gallons per month, there are serious leaks.
• Check your water meter before and after a two-hour period when no water is being used. If the meter changes at all, you probably have a leak.
• Identify toilet leaks by placing a drop of food coloring in the toilet tank. If any color shows up in the bowl after 10 minutes, you have a leak. (Be sure to flush immediately after the experiment to avoid staining the tank.)
• Examine faucet gaskets and pipe fittings for any water on the outside of the pipe to check for surface leaks.
• WaterSense partners have guides and videos that you might find helpful in finding and fixing leaks.

https://www.epa.gov/watersense/about-watersense

https://www.epa.gov/watersense/fix-leak-week

http://www.smarthomewaterguide.org/

https://www.conserveh2o.org/how-to-videos-water-conservation

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wn4QWwIEbf0

Have you ever tried eating pudding out of the packet with a spoon or a straw, and then get frustrated because you realize that you cannot have it all? Of course you have. Everyone faces this dilemma at least once in their lifetime, whether it be pudding, ice-cream, baked beans, or peanut butter etc. The spoon is a great tool to get the majority of the food to your mouth, but not necessarily the best tool to thoroughly clean the bowl, cup or dish, not to mention the access can also limit your thoroughness. The last part of the process involves water, a cleaning agent (dish soap) and a brush or a sponge that can adapt to different contours. After that, only then is the dish and/or container restored to its original state and ready to accept another serving.

Just like the example above, it is your DWV (Drainage, Waste, and Vent) System. It is not an if, it is a when will my DWV system need to be opened/cleaned and how? It may be years of accumulated buildup, roots, sand, abuse, grease, etc. The good news is, there are several ways to go about this. Let’s review the options, and get a good understanding of the equipment and how it works.

1. Chemical Drain Openers/Cleaners
   1. Often use harsh chemicals to open the drain, the chemicals generally create heat, and get to the blockage by being heavier that the water itself.
   2. Often settle at the bottom portion of the blockage, and generally does not clean the whole circumference of the pipe.
   3. Can also be harmful to the pipes you are trying to open.
   4. Often a temporary solution
   5. As a professional, not recommended
2. Plunger
   1. Pressurizes the drain by compressing the air from between the blockage and the plunger. Added pressure can then dislodge the blockage. If there is an open atmospheric vent inbetween, it will not allow pressure to build.
   2. Most useful on isolated toilet clogs, minor kitchen sink, tub/shower, lav, and floor drains.
   3. Plungers are means of creating an opening for flow to be restored, but do not clean the pipe.
   4. Can cause leaks at wax/gaskets of toilets if the blockage is beyond the toilet, also in tubular traps that have weak seals.
   5. Often a temporary solution
   6. As a professional, not a preferred solution
3. Blow Bag
   1. Uses the incoming water supply to fill up a bladder that fits inside of the pipe and swells to seal it off. It will assert as much pressure(PSI) on the blockage as provided from the supply that is serving it.
   2. Most useful on isolated drains with soft blockages that do not have multiple branches or a vent tying into where the pressure could easily be relieved.
   3. A blow bag can dislodge a blockage and allow water to flow, but does not necessarily clean the drain.
   4. Often a temporary solution
   5. As a professional, not a preferred solution

1. Cable
   1. Uses a rotating cable with a cutter/blade on the end to open, retrieve and clean to a degree. Although the cutter spins at a decent rate, it will often bind, lag, and skip portions of the drain.
   2. It is an effective drain opener, many times used on root blockages, fabric (wipes) like clogs, mortar/concrete, cast iron, mineral build-up, hard grease, the lead before the detailing.
   3. Is good for retrieving foreign objects
   4. It is a better drain opener than it is a drain cleaner.
   5. Some equipment can be extended for longer lengths but can lose its effectiveness in doing so.
   6. Access can limit the effectiveness of it. There are situations where one could get an expanding cutter and/or chain on it to assist the cleaning process. However, it is often more time consuming being used as a cleaner.
2. Milling Machines
   1. Originally designed for drain lining prep and reinstatements.
   2. Effective drain opener and cleaner. Spins at very high RPMS. Internal rotating cable is less hazardous.
   3. Limited in length
   4. It can be used in tandem with camera equipment.
3. High-Pressure Water Jets
   1. The standard for efficiency and effectiveness.
   2. Open, clean, and flush all in one shot. Uses high-pressure water and engineered nozzles to spray and clean the full circumference of the pipe.
   3. Preferred method of professionals
   4. It can cut through roots, hard deposits of grease, scale, and mineral build-up.
   5. Not generally limited by access or length of the drain.
   6. It can be used in tandem with camera equipment to validating real-time cleaning.

Several things to think/ask about before approaching each drain problem are

1. What is the purpose of this drain, and what fixture(s) does it serve?
2. Does this drain rely on gravity, or is it forced through a pump?
3. Sewer, septic, branch, bathroom group, shower, storm, does it pass through a backwater valve or a separator, etc?
4. Is it a heavily used public drain, or is it a lightly used private drain?
5. Abuse?
6. Age?
7. Pipe Material? Length?
8. Is it a common penetrable drain or considered impenetrable? Possibly roots, water infiltration, sand/dirt infiltration, separation?
9. What has Changed? Fats, Oils, Grease, hand soaps, hair can slowly accumulate over the years and effect drains and vents.
10. Has it happened before and do you know what was caused it?

Once some of those questions are answered, a professional can make a more educated analysis of the situation and prescribe the appropriate equipment to effectively open and clean the drain if necessary. That having been said, the best analysis is a camera inspection. It gives fact vs speculation, which is always the best approach. The goal should always be to restore the drain back to its original clean new installation state. So, to open or to clean, I say both if that is what the line requires to restore it to its original state.

Pro Tip:

It is best practice to verify the cleaning with a follow up camera inspection. Without it you can only speculate on the condition and performance of the drain.

Drain back-ups happen. It’s never ideal. But we live in a fallen world, and that’s the reality of it. First, confirm that all water usage stops, to try and avoid any further damage. (Note: sometimes this is out of your control and depends on where the blockage is in the Drainage Waste and Vent system, such as in the city or the apartment below. You may have no control other than knocking on doors and making phone calls). Secondly, confirm there are not any electrical receptacles in the area that could be submerged and/or also confirm breakers aren’t blown in the breaker box (if in a dry area, away from the backup). If breakers are tripped, wait until the plumbing emergency is addressed, before flipping back on. Thirdly, treat back-ups with respect. Backups can carry many nasty things such as bloodborne pathogens, harmful chemicals, and disease.

After isolating the issue, here are some helpful questions and steps you can take to determine the severity of the problem at hand.

1. What were you doing when the problem occurred? Ex: taking a shower.
2. Where did the drain back up? Ex: sink, toilet, floor drain.
3. What time of day was it? Ex: Nighttime (generally little to no use at this time), possibly a running toilet or a load of laundry.
4. Did running water at a fixture cause water to back up in a lower fixture drain? Ex 1: While running water from my bathroom lavatory, I noticed water backing up into my tub/shower drain. A blockage is somewhere after where the two drains connect. Ex 2: After taking a shower upstairs and doing a load of laundry in the basement, I came down to a wet puddle in the basement laundry room. This means the blockage is beyond the point of connection of the upstairs fixture drains to the basement fixture drains, and more often than not is outside of the home.
5. What color is the backed-up water? Ex(s): clear, grey, tan, brown, black.
6. Is there miscellaneous debris in the backup? Ex(s):  food, feces, toilet paper, oil/grease.
7. Were there ever any gurgle noises coming from drains? Ex: After flushing the toilet, I heard a gurgle from the tub drain.
   1. Note: Gurgles are generally signs of a larger underlying drain problem.
8. Is there a Backwater Valve?
   1. A backwater valve, Is a one-way valve to help prevent upstairs and city drainage from backing up into lower area.
   2. Generally, it is below grade and connected to a portion of the building drain. It often has a black lid that is on top of a riser which allows access to a plug and inside (beyond the plug) it has a flapper.
   3. Caution: Backwater valves can hold a large amount of water back. Exercise extreme caution before attempting to open.
9. Are the drains directed to a croc? Where they are pumped up and out from?
   1. Look for a croc.
   2. A sewage pump should have two pipes extending from it: one for discharge, and the other for the vent. Lid will, also, be sealed.
   3. Confirm the pump has power to it.
   4. If the pump has two plugs, attempt to bypass the switch plug and plug in the back plug directly to test the pump.
10. Is the house or facility on city sewer or septic? Ex. Do you pay a fee for sewer and water? If so, then you generally are on city. If not, then you are probably on septic.

Note: These are ideas of steps that can be taken and most certainly used as a professional.  However, the writer of this article is not responsible for any unfortunate outcomes. Always use common sense.

Test(s)

1. Confirm what is causing water to back up Is it isolated from or related to other fixtures? Run water from different fixtures to confirm. Note: It is helpful to have a second person for this, to warn you if the backup increases. Also, don’t run a lot of water to do it. Generally, just a little bit of water is needed if it is a complete blockage. A toilet flush is normally about 1.6 gallons these days. So that is potentially 1.6 more gallons of sewage on the floor.
2. Drain the basin via wet/dry vac, and check the trap. It will either be metal or plastic tubular and can usually be removed without tools, but on some occasions will need a wrench. Be sure to have a small bucket underneath to collect some of the water from the trap. Also, some water may come from the drain as well if it is clogged beyond the trap.
3. If there are any floor cleanouts (white plug threaded to a fitting that extends or is level with the floor), remove the plug, and if there is water at that point, the blockage is further downstream.

Culprits

1. Abuse
   1. Wipes
   2. Foreign objects
   3. Anything other than human waste and toilet paper
2. Roots
3. F.O.G. (Fats, Oil, and Grease)
4. Scale (accumulated rust build up)
5. Sand
6. Sags in the drain line
7. Improper sizing
8. Venting

Note: Each blockage has its degree of difficulty, and a drain can be opened in numerous ways. In the following post, I will give the details on how this can be accomplished, but more importantly on how to properly clean a drain, not just open it temporarily.

Pro Tip:

Don’t be deceived. Just because the back-up went down, it does not mean your problem is fixed. You very well could still have a lurking drain problem.